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By Bob Williams
KEENE VALLEY, N.Y. Dec. 22 (World Wide News) – When skiers
tire of short schusses, and snowboarders are bored with rails and
jams, what’s next?
Ice climbing, of course. Although the winter sport is gaining adherents,
there’s nothing easy about it.
Sixty feet up the wall, you could hear water tinkling behind chandelier
ice, running behind the hundreds of glistening icicles. It was like
standing in a crystal fountain, decorated with the occasional cedar
growing sideways from cracks in the rock.
“There’s no more rope,” Don DeKay shouted from
the ground, where his 20-year-old son was on belay, holding the
climbing rope that kept a spectator from falling. Matt DeKay had
about 10 feet left. The rope passed through anchor slings at the
top of the 100-foot cliff, tied at the other end to the harness
around the spectator’s hips.
Standing on the narrow ice ledge, gripping it with spiked soles
of steel crampons, unable to go higher, the spectator turned to
drink in the view of Chapel Pond Canyon – an unexpected reward
from learning to ice climb.
There were nine in the party – intermediates and beginners
– in the climbing clinic at the mid-January Adirondack International
Mountainfest. Already popular with rock climbers, upstate New York’s
stories mountain range is growing in stature as an ice-climbinbg
destination.
Forest surrounded the frozen pond nearby. The two-lane highway
to Lake Placid wound past on the far side, a mountain rising beyond
that.
British mountaineer Simon Yates perched on another north-facing
ice route, removing its top rope as the day wound down. “It’s
going to be a bit watery today,” the instructor had said in
the morning, following a thaw two days earlier. But now it was back
down below freezing.
And after warning the belayer, and making sure both ice axes were
still leashed, the spectator pushed off into space. Matt DeKay lowered
the spectator slowly with the rope.
The DeKays began rock climbing seven years before and recently
branched into ice. Don DeKay said that after hiking in the Adirondacks
it seemed like the next step. Now, the executive from the Syracuse
area saw it as a way to get together with his son, a Siena College
student.
Kate Pebworth took a last climb in late afternoon. A beginner,
she struggled most of the day, kicking the front-points of her crampons
and driving the tips of her axes into the vertical ice wall, only
to have one or another pull out again.
“Pick your left leg up. Brilliant! Now you’re in balance,”
Yates coached on an earlier try. Then her left crampon slipped from
the ice, then her right, then her axes, and she hung from the rope.
On her last attempt, she ascended nearly 60 feet, using her legs
more, staying centered and generally keeping three contact points
while advancing the fourth, as the group had been taught. The 22-year-old
personal trainer, whose only previous experience was in Manhattan
climbing gyms, called down for somebody to grab her camera.
”I got the movement down,” Pebworth said afterward.
“I’m hooked.”
Bill Dodd, a teacher and climbing guide who came to these mountains
20 years ago. Kept advising the beginners to get better angles with
their crampons, rest their weight on straight legs, and reach higher
when swinging the axe in each hand.
“The whole idea of climbing – to climb safely –
is to use the least amount of energy,” he said.
After the spectator twice went easily up a 30-foot hump of ice
in the morning, another beginner jokingly threatened to kick the
spectator out of the group.
Immediately, the spectator slipped and flailed, driving the front-pont
of one crampon through the opposite trouser leg, then was told he
had put the harness on twisted, and later took a spill simply walking
around at the bottom.
“You can climb quickly,” Dodd said. “You can’t
climb in a hurry.”
The ninth annual mountaineering festival here in Keene Valley,
105 miles north of Albany, was organized by local outfitter The
Mountaineer and by Adirondack Rock and River, the guide service
and lodge in nearby Keene.
There were 17 clinics over two days. They cost $125, taught by
both longtime Adirondack guides and world-renowned climbers. Most
filled weeks in advance.
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