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By Bob Williams
Dec. 21 (World Wide News) – Who said great skiing was possible
only in the European Alps? Lebanon has some of the best skiing in
the Middle East.
Just an hour’s drive from downtown Beirut, winter visitors
to Lebanon will encounter a natural element they may not associate
with a region of the world best known for daunting heat and desert
sand: snow. But that’s exactly what they will find at the
Faraya-Mzaar resort – where the recent sound of raised voices
was not an argument over politics but instead an American and an
Arab exchanging harsh words (in French) after one’s skis had
bumped into the other’s snowboard.
There are ski resorts in Turkey, Israel and Cyprus as well, but
some skiers consider Lebanon’s slopes the best in the Middle
East, and maybe the most convenient.
“I’ve lived in the Arab world for 10 years,”
says Andrew Tabler, an American journalist living in Damascus, about
two hours away. “To know I can go skiing anytime is like a
breath of fresh air that draws me here every winter weekend.”
Though it wasn’t until the InterContinental Mountain Resort
and Spa Mzaar opened in 2000 that Faraya-Mzaar began to gain a reputation
as a top ski destination, the mountains were a central part of Lebanon’s
identity hundreds of years before independence in 1946. The steep
coastal topography afforded refuge to religious minorities, including
Druze and Christians, whose persecutors were reluctant to follow
them into the mountains. Mount Lebanon became the country’s
Christian heartland, so, during the civil war, skiing was virtually
off-limits to everyone else.
But after 15 years of peace, the mountain is open again to all.
Since the Sept. 11 attacks, Arabs have tended to travel in the Arab
world, where they do not fear being harassed over politics and where
visas are easier to obtain. So in winter, Saudis, Emiratis and Kuwaitis
are seen on the slopes layered in the latest cold-weather fashions
from New York and Milan – making them among the best-dressed
skiers, if not the most experienced.
The resort town’s 5 tows and 13 chairlifts carry skiers up
18 runs that are short, intense and often taxing, dropping 141 to
1,335 feet from a top elevation of 8,087 feet. Depending on which
of the slopes you choose, a full day of skiing runs from $30 to
$48 on the weekends, and $18 to $25 on the weekdays.
With the mountain range jutting out of the Mediterranean, the climate
is something like California’s, where the Pacific determines
the texture of the snow. As the temperatures climb in to 70’s
come April, locals and visitors alike find themselves spending mornings
on the slopes and afternoons by the sea in their swimsuits.
For nonathletes, there is plenty to do besides sitting by the fire
in the InterContinental’s lobby sipping Turkish coffee and
brandy. Holidays are especially lively, exemplifying the diverse,
polymorphously playful nature of contemporary Lebanon: from a Valentine’s
Day outdoor fashion show with models in silk lingerie and thick
snow boots to snowball fights among Shiite Muslims on the feast
of Eid al-Adha.
For resort information, call (961-9) 341-034 or (961-9) 341-035;
or see www.faraya-mzaar.com or www.skileb.com.
During the high season, until March 15, deluxe doubles at the InterContenental
Mountain Resort and Spa, (961-9) 340-100, www.ihotelsgroup.com,
are $275 a night on weekends and $225 a night on weekdays, with
breakfast. It has indoor and outdoor pools.
At www.skileb.com, packages at the less luxurious Merab, San Antonio
and Auberge Suisse start at $60 a person with ski rental and pass.
Lee Smith reported on this piece from Lebanon.
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