by Mitch Kaplan

The gondola ski lift was invented for days like this. Chilly? A bit. Windy? An understatement.

But, snug as snowsliding bugs-in-a-rug, a half dozen of us settled into the Cloudsplitter Gondola and ascended Whiteface Mountain in comfort. Yes, we had to duck some wind and fog at the top, but we set off down the hill to ski soft, edge-able and plentiful snow.

Of course, it would’ve been nice to linger up top there. To soak up the views of New York State’s high peaks. To eyeball the Green Mountains in the distance. But, hell, there’s no sense wishing for what simply won’t be. The skiing was too good. And we could catch the scenery next time.

Whiteface (www.whiteface.com) stands some 10 miles outside of Lake Placid in the town of Wilmington. No matter. It’s still Lake Placid (www.lakeplacid.com) to most of us. The hill - sometimes dubbed Iceface - has a reputation for being cold, windy and icy. And, yes, it can be.

But, any mountain worthy of Olympic and World Cup competition has something going for it. And, even if your skiing isn’t Olympic caliber, there’s a thrill to sliding the same runs as the big boys and girls. With but an iota of imagination you can see yourself flying at 80-mph in the downhill or cutting through tight slalom gates.

Once, after I watched gold medalist Donna Weinbrecht skip deftly to World Cup Moguls victory here, I slipped into the course to try it myself. The bumps rendered me a bumbling fool. But, hey, I’d skied in Donna’s tracks.

Olympic thrills and history notwithstanding, Whiteface skiing is fully modern. Some $20 million in recent improvements to the lift system - notably the Cloudsplitter Gondola and high-speed Face Lift quad - help. Even the steepest runs are widely cut, and improved snowmaking and grooming temper that icy reputation. The base lodge and children’s facilities have been enhanced. It all adds up to an excellent skiing/riding.

Still, the Lake Placid experience, enhanced by Olympic Regional Development Authority (www.orda.org) facilities, far exceeds skiing.

First, I dare you to dare to answer the bobsled challenge. How terrified can you become in a mere 45 seconds of high-speed, careening, ice sliding? Plenty. I’m not sure why people decide to ride in a runner-equipped contraption at 55-MPH down a radically curved, banked ice track. Having done it twice, I can safely say I still have no clue. But, some claim that it’s fun.

A short drive outside town on Route 73 takes you to the McKenzie Olympic Jumping Complex. Here you ascend by chairlift and elevator to the top of the 90-meter ski jump - 26 stories high. After gaping at the view, you inevitably wonder, "How crazy are these people to jump from this giant ramp?" I’ve got no answers.

Come evening, you can dine on pizza or indulge in a five-star meal. Either way, dinner is best followed by ice skating and tobogganing.

Like something out of Norman Rockwell, rosy cheeked couples, old timers and little kids circle the frozen rink in the Lake Placid High schoolyard. They're skating the same speed oval on which Eric Heiden won five Olympic gold medals. How cool is that? Well, think about it: will you ever get a chance to roam center field in Yankee Stadium like Mantle or DiMaggio?

And, like something from 100 years ago, there’s the toboggan run on Mirror Lake. You climb the wooden ramp to the starting platform some 20 feet up, then sit in classic, three-person wooden toboggans. A push from the attendant and - whoosh - you’re screaming happily down the icy ramp, and propelled across the frozen lake. Except for the flood lights and the high-tech clothing, it's the simple fun of yesteryear.

Lake Placid’s lodging reflects the same range of choice. I’ve overnighted at the reasonably priced, perfectly comfortable place like the Ledge Rock at Whiteface, just across the highway from the ski area; slept in luxury at the Mirror Lake Inn, where rooms can cost $1400 per night; lodged with familiar names like Hilton, Best Western and Crowne Plaza in the heart of town amidst the lively apres-ski and dining scenes; and bedded down on the edge of town among the modestly priced motels like the Swiss Acres.

Everywhere you look, you find choices: a luge rocket ride, the Olympic Museum, shopping, Nordic skiing, winter hiking, watching hockey or figure skating competitions at the Olympic rinks - the list goes on. Me? I’d squeeze in another session on the toboggan. The kids tell me that riding backwards is the coolest way to do it.